Posts Tagged 'aeropostale (aro)'

Can Abercrombie & Fitch Find its Mojo Again?

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Once the darling of the teen retail scene, Abercrombie & Fitch has fallen on hard times since the start of the recession. Missteps including fashion flops and their refusal to markdown prices have driven U.S. consumers to lower-priced rivals American Eagle Outfitters and especially Aeropostale. The company has acknowledged its past mistakes and is working to address the problems, but A&F still has a long way to go before it regains the title as king of teen retail.

In the fourth quarter of 2009, Abercrombie said total sales decreased 4.6% to $936 million, while same-store sales dropped 13%. This was the 9th consecutive quarter of same-store sales declines, and came on top of last year’s Q4 which saw comparable sales plunge 25%. Net income declined 30% to $47.5 million ($0.53 diluted eps) from a year ago and was down 78% from the 4th quarter of 2007.

Abercrombie & Fitch - Quarterly Sales Growth Continue reading ‘Can Abercrombie & Fitch Find its Mojo Again?’

Retail Outlook: Back-to-School 2009

After a summer of unseasonably cool and wet weather, retailers hope they can woo shoppers back to the stores in time for the all important back-to-school season. However, if recent surveys are any indication, results will most likely be disappointing for the 2nd largest shopping season behind Christmas.

Back-to-School season officially kicks off this weekend with sales tax holidays in Georgia and Mississippi, to be followed by 13 other states throughout August. Most states offer exemptions on clothing, school supplies, books, computers and peripherals up to a certain dollar amount. This year, many states grappled with the balance between giving consumers a break and further weakening their own perilous financial situations. As a result of economic conditions, Washington D.C., Florida, Maryland, and Massachusetts decided not have tax holidays for back-to-school this year.

The National Retail Federation (NRF) is forecasting total back-to-school sales of $17.4 Billion, a decrease of 13.2% from last year, while America’s Research Group expects a decline of 8.5-12% on top of a 5% drop in 2008. The NRF projects average spending per family with kids aged 6-17 to drop by 7.7% to $548.72, which would be the lowest since 2006:

Total Projected Back-to-School Spending 2009

Projected Back-to-School Spending per Family 2009

The NRF expects large spending declines in all categories except for electronics, which is expected to be the one bright spot, as total spending is expected to increase 4.1% and spending per family to be up 10.7%. The NRF expects total spending declines per category of: -18% for clothing and accessories, -19.8% for shoes, -21% for school supplies. In its own survey, Deloitte said that 81% will pare back on clothing, 49% will spend less on shoes, 32% will spend less on supplies, and 30% will spend less on backpacks and book bags.

Projected Total Back-to-School Spending by Category 2009

The recession is still weighing heavily on the minds of American families, and though the economy is starting to show signs of stabilization, consumers are still spending extremely cautiously. Worries about unemployment, debt, and investment losses as well as high gas and food prices will continue to shape consumer buying behavior.

How Economy is Changing Plans for Back-to-School Spending

According to a survey of moms with kids aged K-12 conducted by OfficeMax, by far the most important buying factors are durability, price, and value. Products that are environmentally friendly are becoming more mainstream, as 34% of respondents said they would buy more eco-friendly products this year, while Deloitte said 41% will buy more “green” products this year and 31% will seek out “green” retailers.

We expect those stores that have been out-performers since the start of the year to continue to shine. Off-price retailers TJX and Ross Stores have taken market share from traditional department stores as consumers continue to trade down. Teen retailers Aeropostale and The Buckle have so far been immune to the recession, and should continue their impressive run. Dollar stores like Family Dollar and Dollar General should draw a decent chunk of the school supply business. And of course Wal-Mart will draw more shoppers than any other with its unbeatable prices and broad merchandise offerings. Most traditional department and apparel/accessory stores will continue to struggle as they have over the past year. Value-oriented names such as Kohl’s and J.C. Penney will outperform their peers, but most likely still post negative year-over-year comps.

Shoppers are also craving convenience, and drug stores will be the largest beneficiary as they have broadened their merchandise mix  beyond health and beauty products to include school supplies, small electronics, and even groceries. According to the NRF, the number of families planning to shop at drug stores is 18% higher than last year. Nielsen is forecasting a slight rise in sales of school supplies to $2.17 Billion, and James Russo, Vice President, Global Consumer Insights, said “The winners this season will be retailers who offer strong discounts and appeal to the consumer’s desire for savings and value. Look for gains from supercenters, dollar stores, drug stores and to a lesser extent, club and grocery stores.”

Most Popular Back-to-School Destinations 2009 (NRF)

Most Popular Back-to-School Destinations 2009 (Deloitte)

Most Popular Back-to-School Destinations 2009 (ARG)

Retailers have been preparing for back-to-school season by clearing out merchandise and preparing lean inventories with the expectation of reduced volume. They also started promotions early, with retailers including J.C. Penny, OfficeMax, and Staples all moving towards social media campaigns this year to complement their traditional media presence. While the use of social media by teens has exploded over the past few years, retailers should take note of the fact that parents are making more of the buying decisions this year. According to America’s Research Group, just over half of American parents are trying to get their children to wear what they wore last year, and they are flexing their parental muscle in the matter, with children’s influence on buying decisions dropping by at least 20% compared to last year.

With Labor Day falling a week later than last year, retailers are hoping early promotions jump-start the extended back to school season. However, the OfficeMax survey finds that 41% of moms buy the essentials right before school starts, filling in items as needed, while 31% buy everything right before school starts. Only 28% said they would stock up on items through the summer. The NRF had similar findings, as the majority of families won’t begin their shopping until 3 weeks to 1 months before school starts.

Timing of Back to School Purchases 2009 (NRF)

While there are signs the recession is easing and consumer confidence is starting to slowly creep up, economic conditions are still having a large impact on consumer buying conditions. Most retailers will continue to struggle with year-over-year comp declines as they will be up against tough figures from last year when consumers had stimulus checks in their pocket. With expectations so low for back-to-school, we most likely won’t see substantial improvement from retailers until the holiday season.

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June Retail Sales Summary Posted

June was another disappointing month for most retailers, as unseasonably cold and wet weather dampened prospects, in addition to the fact that stores were up against comps from last year when consumer had stimulus checks in their pockets. The best performers continue to be teen retailers Aeropostale and The Buckle, as well as off-price retailers TJX and Ross Stores.

For the 33 retailers we track that report monthly sales data, overall net sales for June were $34.144 Billion, a 2.6% decline from June 2008.  On a comparable same-store basis, sales were down 4.7% from the prior period vs. a gain of 2.1% last June. The optimism we saw back in April when things seemed to be improving for the most part has disappeared, as just about every retailer mentioned how tough the retail environment is, and how the frugal consumer has really changed the landscape. Things aren’t expected to pick up through the summer, but the hope is that an early back-to-school season will bring at least marginal improvement starting in September.

Consolidated Monthly Retail Sales June 2009

Read the rest of the report here.

Over the next week we will be highlighting sub-sectors including teen, luxury, and off-price retail, as well as wholesale clubs, so stay tuned…

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Aeropostale: Firing on all Cylinders

Even in the best of economic times, Aeropostale’s performance over the last 18 months would be considered impressive.  When you take into account the fact they were posting these results in the worst retail environment in decades, it becomes that much more unbelievable: they have posted positive same-store sales results in 21 of the last 22 months, and for 7 consecutive quarters:


Aeropostale Monthly Sales Change

Aeropostale Quarterly Sales Change


The company has been the clear standout among teen retailers, as rivals Abercrombie & Fitch and American Eagle Outfitters have struggled to retain brand loyalty – both have posted negative same-store sales results for 13 consecutive months and 6 consecutive quarters.  As a matter of fact, besides stellar performer The Buckle, you would be hard-pressed to find a better performing company than Aeropostale, not just in the teen retail or apparel segments, but in the whole retail industry.  And this is not just a recent phenomenon:


Aeropostale Financial Snapshot1


So what’s their secret?  Well, actually it’s no secret at all – top executives have been very open about their formula, both in interviews and on conference calls.  The core idea is to give shoppers what they want at prices they can afford – Aeropostale doesn’t consider themselves a trend-setter, but rather a fashion follower.  Instead of worrying about what’s on the shelves of their competitors, they look at what’s on the backs of their target consumers.  As CEO Julian Geiger put it:

“We genuinely listen to our customers and give them what they want more so than our competitors. We do not superimpose on them what we think they should wear. They tell us what they want to wear.”

Price and promotion have been extremely important as well.  While Geiger credits a the recent success to a focus on fashion rather than an obsession on price, luring frugal shoppers certainly hasn’t hurt.  The company’s price point is about 50% less than Abercrombie and 30% less than American Eagle.  They perfected their promotional merchandising strategy long before the recession hit, with pre-planned sales signs and two-for-one deals throughout the stores.  However, besides 4th quarter mark-downs late last year, they have been able to expand gross margins in 10 out of the last 11 quarters:


Aeropostale Quarterly Gross Margin Change



The company is not resting on its laurels, either.  At a time when most retailers are shutting brands and scaling back growth plans, such as Abercrombie’s RUEHL, Aeropostale is launching a new brand – PS – aimed at the tween market.  While the Aeropostale brand is fairly narrowly targeted to the 14-17 yr old demographic, PS will cater to 7-12 yr old kids.  With plans to open 9-10 stores this year as well as an e-commerce site, PS hopes to capture a piece of the estimated $14 Billion tween market, with the goal of eventually opening up to 500 stores.

While store sales growth has been exceptional, e-commerce growth is the channel that could really drive growth in the future.  While the company didn’t launch online operations until late 2005, they posted internet sales of $79.1 Million in fiscal 2008, which was 85% higher than the prior year.  This will be an important outlet not only for growth but for reaching customers more directly through promotional and direct marketing campaigns.  One example is the “Teens for Jeans” charity project launched earlier this year, where over 200,000 teen customers donated “gently used” jeans to their homeless peers.  Campaigns such as this not only boost the company’s profile, but provide better viral publicity than advertising ever could.

Past performance doesn’t guarantee future success, and the company realizes there is a long line of faded teen retail stars and customers’ tastes can change overnight.  They are among the most diligent users of market research, and have leveraged the internet to communicate directly with their best customers to solicit feedback on new styles.  With the wind at their back, look for the company to continue to succeed no matter what the environment.

“You really have to look back in time. Nothing in retail happens quickly. We have been willing to look at ourselves and realize what we like about ourselves and what we don’t and make appropriate changes. It’s about a balance of assortment and store design. What you see now is the cumulative affects of adding fashion merchandise to our assortment, while maintaining a promotional stance.” – Aeropostale CEO Julian Geiger, interview with TheStreet.com in May 2009

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Consumer (S)Pending

Last week 30+ retailers reported comparable year-on-year sales for May 2009 (see below), and the best that can be said of the results is that consumer spending is stabilizing at a very low level.  Today, we got updated same-store sales data for the 1st week of June and it’s more of the same:

  • Redbook Research reported that adjusted same-store sales at over 9,000 general merchandise stores were -4.4% for the first week of June vs. a year ago
  • ICSC Research reported that adjusted same-store sales for 75 large retail chain stores were -0.8% from the year ago period and up marginally from last week.  They expect overall June sales will be down 4-5% vs. a 4.6% drop in May.

While there is hope that things will pick up and the economy will continue to improve, even the most optimistic economists admit that the unemployment rate will continue to climb and most likely reach double digits by the end of the year.

On the housing front, foreclosures continue to be a problem as the pain has spread to even the most credit-worthy borrowers – the portion of prime mortgages that were seriously delinquent from the 1st to the 4th quarter of 2008 more than doubled, and the pace continues to accelerate.

Add on the fact that gas prices have climbed for 41 straight days, and now sit at $2.62 from a low of $1.62 at the end of last year.  While this is still well below the $4+ that people were paying at the pump last summer, it’s a worrying trend heading into the demand-driven summer season.

The combination of these 3 factors, along with the fact that same-store sales will have to be compared to last year’s stimulus-fueled spending will continue to make it a tough road ahead for retailers.

Below is a summary of YoY comparable same-store data for 34 retailers that reported monthly sales in May.  Some notable out-performers have been Aeropostale, Buckle, Ross Stores, and Pricesmart:

May_2009_Same_Store_Sales

May_2009_Same_Store_Sales2

ICSC Research

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