Posts Tagged 'abercrombie & fitch (anf)'



Retail Outlook: Retail Execs Show “Guarded Optimism”

With the majority of retail companies having reported fiscal 2nd quarter earnings by now, a picture is emerging of an industry continuing to struggle with a very weak consumer spending environment. Most retailers were able to beat earnings estimates through cost-cutting and inventory management initiatives, but top-line results have been soft as demand seems to have stabilized at a very low level.

Yesterday, KPMG released a survey titled “Surprising Majority of Retail Executives Expect Higher Revenue, Profitability, Improved Jobs Outlook in 2010.” Commenting on the results, Mark Larson, KPMG global retail sector chair, said “The KPMG survey findings reflected an expression of guarded optimism among retail executives, given the industry’s challenges as demand for goods continued to plummet during the recession,”

And the top-level results certainly seem to show some optimism: 70 percent of the executives said they expect business conditions to improve in 2010, with 68 percent expecting stronger revenue and 66 percent expecting improved profitability. However, after seeing some more of the survey findings, “cautiously hopeful” might be a more apt description of how retail executives are feeling about the future:

  • However, 44 percent of those surveyed still believe the U.S. economy as a whole could take as long as 2011 or later to substantially recover
  • When survey respondents were asked to identify the triggers they think will spur a U.S. economic recovery, the most frequently cited factors by far were increased consumer spending (52 percent), improved consumer confidence (51 percent) and an increase in jobs/employment (48 percent)
  • 49 percent of the respondents said they thought the retail industry would fully recover ahead of the U.S. economy, while 51 percent thought their industry would recover at the same time or after the U.S. economy
  • Overall, 84 percent of retail executives see an improving jobs picture in their industry in 2010, with 52 percent saying it would be stable and 32 percent saying it will be better than 2009

It seems retail executives are more “hopeful” that things “may” improve, rather than optimistic that they are seeing actual improvement. Relying on consumers to spur the recovery is a risky proposition, especially when you consider how leveraged the consumer is to further deterioration in housing and employment.


The back-to-school season isn’t expected to provide much relief, with many analysts predicting the worst shopping season in a decade. There is hope yet though, as the National Retail Federation reported that the average American family had only completed only 41.6 percent of their back-to-school shopping as of August 11, while nearly one-third of families with school-aged children haven’t even started their shopping.

Controlling costs and inventory, and providing merchandise and values that drive traffic will be key to companies improving efficiencies and gaining market share through the end of the year. As we can see from the below comments from executives on 2nd quarter conference calls, companies are continuing to adjust to a very tight consumer spending environment:

Blake W. Nordstrom – President and Director – Nordstrom

“Though July represented some improvement, our plans remain unchanged for the balance of the year. We really don’t see outside of this unique sale event a change with the customer. Our grounded plans do allow us to be able to respond timely and effectively if an upturn were to occur,”

“And we believe we’re planned accordingly, with grounded plans on expense and inventory and all the key metrics of our business to give us the necessary flexibility and upside to respond accordingly when that demand hopefully improves.”



Karen M. Hoguet – Chief Financial Officer, Executive Vice President – Macy’s

“So our guidance is not anticipating any enormous improvement. I did say that I am cautiously optimistic that we will start to get some benefit from the My Macy’s rollout in the fourth quarter, as we did in the test 20 districts last year. But that remains to be seen and obviously a lot depends on the economic environment which I don’t think any of us can predict at this point.”



Kevin Mansell – President, Chief Executive Officer, Director – Kohl’s

“all of our primary research and our own response rates on events have continued to indicate the consumer is very focused on stretching their dollar, making their budget go further, and seeking optimum value.”

“We recognize that our spring results over-achieved our expectations in both sales and earnings per share. At the same time, both our primary and our secondary research indicate the consumer continues to face economic challenges and intends to continue to shop less and looks to seek ways to stretch her dollar. We would expect the second half of this year to continue to be a fight for market share.”



Mike Jeffries – Chairman and Chief Executive Officer – Abercrombie & Fitch

“We continue to be confronted with very challenging conditions during the second quarter.”

“,consumer spending patterns domestically continue to be dictated by cost and value propositions and this is clearly a headwind for our premium brands.”



Stephen I. Sadove – Chairman and Chief Executive Officer – Saks

“As we look to fall, we expect that the economic conditions will remain extremely difficult for the balance of the year if not beyond, and we’re continuing to plan accordingly.”

“Although sales trends are undoubtedly more stable than they were in the fall of last year, the current economic and retail landscape is still uncertain and we know that predicting future sales and gross margin performance with any certainty remains very difficult.”



Gregg Steinhafel – President & CEO – Target

“Consumers remained cautious resulting in weak guest traffic and transaction size, retail prices especially in food and commodities continued to decline resulting in deflationary pressures and the economic recovery appeared to temporary stall as the country cycled the impact of last year’s stimulus checks.”



Eduardo Castro-Wright – Vice Chairman – WalMart

“we expect that the economy will remain difficult. Our own surveys point to ongoing concerns by consumers about their own financial situation. More people are concerned about unemployment.”

Mike Duke – President and CEO – WalMart

“Consumers continue to face a difficult global economy, having to do more with less.”

“Overall, our customers are more disciplined in their spending. There’s a new normal now where people are saving more, consuming less, and being more frugal and thoughtful in their purchases.”


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Retail Round-Up: 8/13/09

Macy’s kicked off 2nd-quarter earnings season for retailers yesterday, and things picked up today with the Commerce Department reporting July Retail Sales and retail behemoth Wal-Mart reporting this morning, followed by earnings reports from department stores Kohl’s and Nordstrom. So far, the theme has been “not as bad as it could have been”, with all those reporting having beaten the oft-lowered analyst estimates on cost-cutting measures and inventory management. However, there are few signs that consumers are in a hurry to boost their discretionary spending – the best that can be said of top-line results is they have stabilized at an extremely low level.

  • Nordstrom reported fiscal 2nd quarter net income of $105 million ($.48 per share diluted), which met consensus analysts estimates, but both measures decreased more than 26% from the year ago period. Net sales for the quarter declined 6.2% to $2.145 Billion, while same-store sales decreased 9.8%. While this breaks a string of 3 straight quarters of double-digit comparable store declines, it should be noted that this quarter included 3 of the 5 annual sales events held by the company, which helped boost results. For the quarter, Full-Line Stores showed a same-store sales decline of 12.3%, while Direct-to-Consumer Sales were up 3.5%, and Nordstrom Rack once again showed relative outperformance with a same-store sales increase of 0.8%. The company expects full year same-store sales to decline 9-12%, and is raising guidance for the full year from $1.50-$1.65 a share, up from the previous outlook of $1.25-$1.50.

Nordstrom - Quarterly Sales Growth

Nordstrom - Quarterly Earnings Growth

  • Kohl’s reported a 3% decrease in net income to $229 million ($.75 per share diluted) in the fiscal second quarter compared to last year. Net sales increased 2.2% to $3.806 Billion, while same-store sales decreased 2.3%. Kohl’s has been a beneficiary of consumers continuing to trade down, and results have steadily improved since November. They have also been able to increase sales of store brands, and have shown gross margin expansion in 5 straight quarters. For the rest of the year, the company expects sales to be roughly flat year-over-year, with comparable sales falling 3-5% and earnings to decline about 10%.

Kohl's - Quarterly Sales Growth

Kohl's - Quarterly Earnings Growth

  • Wal-Mart stopped reporting monthly sales back in May, so their was a lot of anticipation for their quarterly same-store sales results. In the fiscal 2nd quarter, the company said total sales fell 1.4% to $100.1 Billion, while same-store sales declined 1.2% vs. analyst estimates of a 0.85% increase. However, leaner inventories helped boost the bottom line, as net income came in a few cents ahead of estimates at $3.44 Billion ($.88 per share diluted), roughly flat to last year. The strong dollar negatively impacted results, as sales rose on a constant currency basis by 2.7%. The company attributed the worse-than expected comparable sales results to underestimating how much of a boost it got from shoppers having tax rebates last year, as well as lower food and gas prices. Regarding the results, CEO Mike Duke said “Short term, we believe the economy will continue to be challenging. We are accelerating our focus on reducing expenses and improving productivity in all of our operations.”



Based on the data points we saw this morning: disappointing retail sales, a jump in unemployment claims, and another record number of foreclosures, there is no reason to expect much near-term improvement for most retailers. While companies like Kohl’s and Wal-Mart have been able to grab market share and lure value-conscious consumers, they continue to focus on cost-cutting and re-aligning inventories with demand. Buyers are still extremely cautious and only shopping for necessities, and we don’t expect much of an uptick in discretionary spend through the next quarter.

Next up on the radar is earnings reports tomorrow from Abercrombie & Fitch, Dillard’s, and JC Penney, followed by a multitude of companies reporting next week. Expect the majority of retailers to best watered-down earnings estimates, while touting their restructuring, cost savings, and inventory management initiatives.



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Aeropostale: Firing on all Cylinders

Even in the best of economic times, Aeropostale’s performance over the last 18 months would be considered impressive.  When you take into account the fact they were posting these results in the worst retail environment in decades, it becomes that much more unbelievable: they have posted positive same-store sales results in 21 of the last 22 months, and for 7 consecutive quarters:


Aeropostale Monthly Sales Change

Aeropostale Quarterly Sales Change


The company has been the clear standout among teen retailers, as rivals Abercrombie & Fitch and American Eagle Outfitters have struggled to retain brand loyalty – both have posted negative same-store sales results for 13 consecutive months and 6 consecutive quarters.  As a matter of fact, besides stellar performer The Buckle, you would be hard-pressed to find a better performing company than Aeropostale, not just in the teen retail or apparel segments, but in the whole retail industry.  And this is not just a recent phenomenon:


Aeropostale Financial Snapshot1


So what’s their secret?  Well, actually it’s no secret at all – top executives have been very open about their formula, both in interviews and on conference calls.  The core idea is to give shoppers what they want at prices they can afford – Aeropostale doesn’t consider themselves a trend-setter, but rather a fashion follower.  Instead of worrying about what’s on the shelves of their competitors, they look at what’s on the backs of their target consumers.  As CEO Julian Geiger put it:

“We genuinely listen to our customers and give them what they want more so than our competitors. We do not superimpose on them what we think they should wear. They tell us what they want to wear.”

Price and promotion have been extremely important as well.  While Geiger credits a the recent success to a focus on fashion rather than an obsession on price, luring frugal shoppers certainly hasn’t hurt.  The company’s price point is about 50% less than Abercrombie and 30% less than American Eagle.  They perfected their promotional merchandising strategy long before the recession hit, with pre-planned sales signs and two-for-one deals throughout the stores.  However, besides 4th quarter mark-downs late last year, they have been able to expand gross margins in 10 out of the last 11 quarters:


Aeropostale Quarterly Gross Margin Change



The company is not resting on its laurels, either.  At a time when most retailers are shutting brands and scaling back growth plans, such as Abercrombie’s RUEHL, Aeropostale is launching a new brand – PS – aimed at the tween market.  While the Aeropostale brand is fairly narrowly targeted to the 14-17 yr old demographic, PS will cater to 7-12 yr old kids.  With plans to open 9-10 stores this year as well as an e-commerce site, PS hopes to capture a piece of the estimated $14 Billion tween market, with the goal of eventually opening up to 500 stores.

While store sales growth has been exceptional, e-commerce growth is the channel that could really drive growth in the future.  While the company didn’t launch online operations until late 2005, they posted internet sales of $79.1 Million in fiscal 2008, which was 85% higher than the prior year.  This will be an important outlet not only for growth but for reaching customers more directly through promotional and direct marketing campaigns.  One example is the “Teens for Jeans” charity project launched earlier this year, where over 200,000 teen customers donated “gently used” jeans to their homeless peers.  Campaigns such as this not only boost the company’s profile, but provide better viral publicity than advertising ever could.

Past performance doesn’t guarantee future success, and the company realizes there is a long line of faded teen retail stars and customers’ tastes can change overnight.  They are among the most diligent users of market research, and have leveraged the internet to communicate directly with their best customers to solicit feedback on new styles.  With the wind at their back, look for the company to continue to succeed no matter what the environment.

“You really have to look back in time. Nothing in retail happens quickly. We have been willing to look at ourselves and realize what we like about ourselves and what we don’t and make appropriate changes. It’s about a balance of assortment and store design. What you see now is the cumulative affects of adding fashion merchandise to our assortment, while maintaining a promotional stance.” – Aeropostale CEO Julian Geiger, interview with TheStreet.com in May 2009

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What Ever Happened to the Gap?

You remember when the Gap was hip and innovative?  They made khakis and basic tees cool.  Banana Republic made preppy cool.  Old Navy made you want to wear board shorts and flip flops with annoying commercials you couldn’t get out of your head.  Somewhere along the line they lost their way – while almost all retailers are struggling in an extremely tough environment, the Gap seems to have missed out on the bubble-induced spending orgy altogether.  With Q1 results in, they have now reported 19 consecutive quarters of negative same-store sales growth:

gps_qsss

Management would like to have you believe that this performance isn’t too shabby considering the state of the consumer and compared to the results of their competitors:

“The market conditions, from our perspective, continue to be challenging. With that said, I think our performance in Q1 was respectable. None of us like to produce results in the quarter below last year. I don’t think any business would ever want to produce results below last year but with the conditions in which we are operating in, I think it was respectable and versus a lot of our competitors, I was pleased with our performance in the first quarter.”

If we look at their recent sales performance against a couple of the competitors we talked about last week, minus Aeropostale since they are a clear out-performer, this statement seems to hold up:

teen_comp_msss2

However, if we look back a little further, you can see that the idea that their performance is a result of economic conditions becomes a little hard to believe.  I wonder what their excuse was back in 2005 & 2006:

teen_comp_qsss3

This is not a recent phenomenon – growth has been stagnant for quite awhile now:

teen_comp_snap2

With improving consumer sentiment, there is hope that overall retail sales are in a bottoming process.  In April, Old Navy reported its first positive same-store sales results in over 2 years.  However, if we look at same-store sales by brand we can see it will be at least a few months before this is any reason to cheer:

gps_msss_bb

The one consistent bright spot for the company has been their direct-to-consumer business, which surpassed $1 Billion in total sales for 2008.  Gap was an early entrant into the online channel, and have more than doubled their direct sales since 2003:

gps_dtc_annual

While Gap certainly has had some struggles over the past few years, they also have a pristine balance sheet with almost no debt and about $1.8 Billion of cash.  However, in an extremely tough retail environment with intense competition, there will need to be drastic change to return to the days when we’re all humming Old Navy tunes in our heads…

A Comparison of 3 Teen Retailers

With 1st Quarter earnings season coming to an end, it’s becoming quite clear that not all retailers should be painted with the same brush.  Taking a look at 3 apparel retailers targeting young men & women, we can see that some retailers have not only held up better than others, but have been able to thrive in an extremely tough environment.  Here is a snapshot of Abercrombie & Fitch, American Eagle Outfitters, and Aeropostale:

teen_comp_snap

While they are the smallest of the three, Aeropostale has shown stronger top line growth throughout the decade.  More impressive has been their strong same-store sales performance over the past 18 months:

teen_comp_msss

teen_comp_qsss

Abercrombie & Fitch has struggled the most as they were hesitant to cut prices in order to “protect the brand.”  Some comments from the Q1 conference call tell the story:

The first quarter was clearly a difficult one for us with the challenging economic environment, we continue to face a headwind where the consumer is reluctant to spend on premium brands. There is a price consciousness dictating shoppers’ purchases today, unlike anything I have seen before.

We are actively planning for meaningful reductions in our average unit retails, while remaining committed to protecting our initial mark-up percentage and providing quality product.

As cost-cutting continues for the rest of 2009, the growth in store openings will likely slow as it has already started to level off over the past 6 months:

teen_comp_tsc

Aeropostale has also outperformed on a sales per average square foot basis throughout the years:

teen_comp_spsf

As the least expensive of the 3 premium brands, Aerpostale has been able to not only outperform relative to their peers, but continue to post record top and bottom line results in the toughest retail environment in decades.  They also got a late start on their e-commerce business, and while online sales in 2008 showed growth of 85% over the prior year, that channel still makes up only 4.2% of total sales.

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