Archive for June, 2010

Retail News of the Week

Father’s Day Results Mixed: Father’s Day results seemed to be in the range of meeting or slightly exceeding plan, depending upon the retailer. The bestsellers were: tailored clothing, dress shirts, knitwear and accessories. Brooks Brothers reported sales were “a little better than we anticipated,” according to chief merchandising officer Lou Amendola. Tom Ott, SVP and GMM of Men’s Wear at Saks said that their private men’s brand was the best category. At Lord & Taylor, which made a major statement in an expanded, re-kindled men’s area, Jonathan Greller, SVP and GMM of Men’s, said they were seeing double-digit increases prior to this past week and saw that fall to mid single digits. Several of the better men’s specialty stores saw increases of 3-5 percent. BizRate.com reported online sales for Father’s Day gifts were $91 million, almost triple the number from lasy year. Best sellers on-line were in the portable electronics category.

Nook and Kindle Fighting for the Non iPad Reader Market: Crunchgear.com reports that sales of Barnes & Noble ereader, the Nook, surpassed sales of Amazon’s in March for the first time. Digitimes reports that 53% of readers shipped that month were Nooks. They estimate that the total market will reach 11 million by the end of the year. Both of those are being chased by Apple’s iPod which features a reader in addition to other capacities, which has forced by Amazon and Barnes & Noble into cutting prices substantially on their products.

Kohl’s and Aldo Join Forces: Kohl’s announced that they have signed a deal with Aldo to produce private label men’s and women’s footwear. The products will be available in the stores and on-line for Spring of 2011. Footwear is one of the leading growth categories for Kohl’s, and their private label and exclusive brands segment is now at 47% of total sales and a larger share of gross margin. This looks like a very good move for both parties.

New York and Co have New Issues: The one billion dollar specialty store chain, which already released poor numbers for second quarter, said that 2 top design executives have quit. Marie Holman-Rao, the well-regarded chief design officer and Anne-Charlotte Windal, senior VP of Design, both abruptly resigned this week. The chain has been struggling with image and focus for some time and this seems to be more bad news. The stock is at 2.65 and is in dire need of something positive to happen.

Thursday Retail News & Notes

Sam’s Club Takes Different Approach To Apparel than Parent: Unlike Walmart, where the approach to apparel and accessories is exclusive proprietary labels at low prices, Sam’s Club carries national brands at discount prices, although not necessarily low prices. In fact, you can find a $50,000 diamond ring or a $10,000 watch there. This helped the member’s only club to increase operating profits in the 1st quarter ending April 30 over 9%. Some of the brands they carry are Ebel and Concord watches, Furla handbags and apparel by Speedo, Calvin Klein, Anne Klein, DKNY, Cole Haan and Judith Ripka. Aside from fashion, the strongest categories were fresh food and health and wellness.

Sun Takes Remaining Stake in Limited Brands: Sun Capital Partners, the Boca Raton based private equity firm which acquired a 75% stake in Limited Brands in 2007, announced that they are buying the remaining 25% for $32 million. Sun took the original majority percentage from the former owner for essentially no money except for an agreed upon capital equity investment of $50 million. Leslie Wexner started and built the Limited into the premier teen mall destination store and at its height was a chain of 750 stores doing over $1 billion. By 2007 it was ailing and Wexner was looking to unload it to concentrate energy and investment in Victoria’s Secret and Bath & Body. It was a risk for Sun, but they got a bargain basement price for a business that was still generating almost $500 million in revenue. It looks like Sun has accomplished a nice turnaround. The remaining 25% went for a bit of a premium and last year was the first year for positive earnings since 1993.

Signs of a Happy Father’s Day: Early indications from retailers across the country are pointing to a decent increase for Father’s Day sales. Additionally, according the 2010 Father’s Day Consumer Intentions and Actions Survey conducted by BIGresearch, consumers plan to increase their spending for the holiday by 5%. Total sales for this Father’s Day are expected to reach $9.8 billion, with 40% for meals at restaurants, 37% for apparel/accessories and 35% for electronics.

Toys “R” Us to Offer Christmas Savers Club: Toys “R” Us announced that they will begin offering a Christmas Savers Club that allows shoppers to deposit money into and account that will load a card similar to a gift card. They can continue to add to that card, which in essence is like a savings account and eventually use the card for purchases. The retailer will pay 3% interest as an added incentive. It will be available for use with the toy retailer and its affiliate, Babies “R” Us plus their respective websites.

Recent Retail News

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  • Adding to the enormous pressure on prices facing retailers and vendors, China is now no longer the go to country for cheap manufacturing. This is for several reasons. One is that their factories are now much busier than last year and they can now be choosier about what prices they agree to. Two is the currency value changes that are not in favor of the Dollar or Euro. Three is the stance that the government has taken. They do not want to be the source of cheap labor that they have been. They are looking to increase their share of the high-tech and quality apparel and fashion production and are very willing to say goodbye to the low-end business that they built their economic strength on. Vietnam and Bangladesh are now the countries where opening price point product is being produced and their factories are filling up quickly.
  • Net-a-porter announced that they will launch a stand-alone site dedicated to better men’s fashion in January. This will be the second new business. They started Outnet, an off price site for women’s wear in April 2009. Net-a-porter was purchased by Compagnie Financiere Richemont (Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chloe, Dunhill, Montblanc) for 350 million pounds ($511 million) this past April. Annual sales for Net-a-porter were about $175 million last year, and it’s expected that the men’s site would generate 20% of the women’s volume.
  • Talbots announced that same store sales rose 2.4% for the first quarter and that the loss was narrowed from 44 cents a share last year to 8 cents a share this year. But its forecast for the second quarter was not bright and the stock fell sharply. Behind those numbers though is the reality that the upgrade of their merchandise has not been as rapid and sharp as analysts and the consumer was hoping. Additionally, Retailsails hears that there is a senior executive managing the new design team that is causing a lot of friction and dissension in the ranks.

Monday Retail News

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  • Coldwater Creek announced that in the quarter ending May 1 they had a profit of $2.3 million vs a loss of $7.6 million last year. Revenue grew by 6.4%. Same store sales grew by only 1% but margins improved from 31.1% to 37.4%. They did add though that inventory has been building up and they anticipate a loss for the coming quarter due to expected markdowns. Additionally, they said Georgia Shonk-Simmons, President and Chief Merchandising Officer, will retire next May and that Jerome Jessup, currently Executive Vice President, will succeed her. Jessup, 49, will immediately assume responsibility for merchandise design and development. Coldwater Creek is in a race to the finish with other national retailers like Ann Taylor, Talbots and Chico’s that cater to the same demographic. They are all attempting to upgrade their assortments without turning off their core customers and at this point none of the 4 have clearly separated themselves from the pack.
  • Walgreens is reversing a 15 year self-imposed ban on alcohol sales. They have already started rolling out this initiative and plan on stocking 5000 of their 8000 stores with beer and wine by the end of this year. It is expected this could add 2% to revenue. In the past, going back to the early 90’s, alcohol accounted for 10% of overall sales. They currently generate 75% of their revenue on drug sales and are expecting that this will significantly add volume and improve margins.
  • HauteLook, the private sale web retailer, received $31 million in a third round of new funding led by Insight Venture Partners, bringing their total funding to $41 million. The Los Angeles based company has over 2.5 million members. This is the first consumer fashion investment for Insight. This channel just continues to explode.

Looking Beyond the Numbers

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The retail sales results for May and the recent jobs report (or lack of enough jobs report) were, at best, mixed. It is clear, and has been for several months, that the recovery is going to be a slow, difficult, up and down ride. This is not going to be a year of a rising tide lifting all boats. There are going to be some winners and losers.

The category that continues to be strong is the value/discount sector. BJ’s, Costco, TJX and Ross in particular. Those retailers held firm throughout 2009 and have remained solid this year. Target, Victoria’s Secret and Aeropostale also appear firm. Those latter 3 each have their own formula that is working.

The outdoor segment continues to do well. RetailSails hears that The North Face is showing double-digit gains with their classic, best-selling, Denali jacket (which they had thought of stopping production on for fear of it being too old school) having it’s best year ever. Also, Patagonia has put together a very robust 6 months.

Saks, Nordstrom’s and Neiman Marcus, who all reported double-digit drops last year and therefore have easier numbers to hit, all reported very good comps for May after a strong March and April. Conversely, teen retailers like A&F, American Eagle and Hot Topic are struggling and will be going through a clearance phase for the next month or two.

Additionally, Forever 21 and Zara appear to have an inventory buildup as well that they are going to have to liquidate at reduced prices. This will press the traditional department stores, which have been barely hanging on, to feel the price and margin pressure.

How long will this go on for? The consumer picture is not going to change dramatically for at least 6 months. So there will continue to be winners and losers. Michael Niemira, chief economist at the International Council of Shopping Centers, forecast a 3 percent increase for June, partially because of the Memorial Day weekend switch from may to June. Arnold Aronson, managing director of Kurt Salmon Associates predicted a low single digit gain.

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